Trip report: Birding and walking in the Highlands

A Highland break 'da solo' turned out to be huge amounts of fun

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I’d never been on holiday on my own before. Mostly because I couldn’t afford to, but also because holidays have always seemed like social things, to be enjoyed with another person, or lots of people. However, there was no way I was going to get The Chap on a birding and walking break and my mum, who would usually come with me, was in Wales with her sister.

My birding targets aren’t very ambitious when I do these breaks. This time around I wanted to see Capercaillie and Dipper. The latter can be seen up in the Highlands anywhere there’s suitable water, while the former involved an early morning visit to Loch Garten RSPB.

I decided to stay in Grantown-on-Spey as it seemed very well placed for exploring the wider countryside, as well as having plenty of walks, cafes, pubs and a couple of good hotels. This proved a good choice and I’ll definitely be coming back. My first choice of hotel, the Grant Arms, was fully booked, so a bit of research turned up the Craiglynne Hotel. Another good choice: the hotel was really well located, the staff so friendly and helpful and the food great.

The River Spey. 

Once I’d checked in and unpacked my case, I headed out for a walk to the River Spey and then into the town and back to the hotel. It was a nice start to my break and after an evening in the hotel bar and then restaurant, it was time for bed for an early start the next day.

Aside: good eating
I’ve been to Scotland three times now and each time the food has been superlative. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many good restaurants in such a small area as in Edinburgh, while both my trips to the Highlands have offered up some bloody good food. The only disappointing meal I had this time around was that first night in the hotel. It wasn’t bad, just a bit tired seeming, like it had been out too long under those powerful lights they have in restaurants.

Particularly good were the pearl barley risotto and chocolate pudding in the hotel and the pies at the famous ‘pie pub’, the Craig Bar. The bar is worth a visit even if you’re not eating. Massive selection of whiskies and really friendly staff.

Sunday was Capercaille Day. I left early to get to Loch Garten RSPB. When I arrived there were already a number of people in the hide, but no Capers had been spotted. One had been around the previous day so we all had our fingers metaphorically crossed. The female Osprey was on the nest so most of us passed the time by watching her.

Several hours went by and no Capers were seen. Then Caper-watch ended. This was the last one of the season and it was somewhat disappointing not to get my target. I headed back to the hotel for breakfast and a short nap. Then it was time for another, this time much longer, walk. And guess what? Fewer than five minutes into it, I stumbled across my other target: Dipper. An adult and a juvenile were bobbing up and down on stones in a fast-running streamlet. I watched for while, observing the youngster begging for food, which was steadfastly ignored. This was an excellent start to the walk, making up for my failure to see Capers.

The Dipper site. You can't actually see the Dippers in
this photo, but they are there.

The rest of the day was taken up with reading, colouring and checking emails and social media; along with drinking coffee and then later on a cheeky glass of wine, of course. Well I did say my birding trips were rather relaxed affairs.

The next day was designated a walking day. I found a really lovely 5km circular route with views over the town, appropriately enough called the Viewpoints Walk.

Aside 2: ain’t technology grand?
I got to Grantown using Google Maps on my phone. I got to Loch Garten and back the same way. I found the Viewpoints Walk by simply googling ‘walks around Grantown-on-Spey’. I found an excellent website called walkhighlands that had a whole range of walks in – you guessed it – the Highlands. I downloaded the Google Earth app to my phone, downloaded the walk and used this to direct me. A little blue dot showed where I was on the walk so I couldn’t possibly get lost. This is quite important when you’re walking in the Highlands on your own.

This was a very enjoyable, not-too-challenging walk for this lowland-dwelling walker. And the views were indeed spectacular.

The afternoon brought lunch (a cheese scone and bowl of ice cream – all that walking meant totally guilt-free eating!). Then back to the hotel for rest and relaxation.

The next day was my last full day in Grantown, a prospect that was rather sad. I was enjoying myself so much I really didn’t want to leave. I was planning on birding, but the day brought rain and I decided I didn’t fancy the drive to Loch Morlich. So instead I found another walk close to the town. This time an 8km trek through forest. Again it was beautiful. Photos were taken, warblers and tits were spotted and I fully enjoyed myself despite the rain.

I’m not so bothered about not seeing Capercaille; it just means I’ll have to go back next year

Far too quickly it was time to go home. On my final morning, I breakfasted, packed, checked out and left for the airport. I had an excellent solo holiday and would definitely do it again. And you know what? I’m not so bothered about not seeing Capercaille. It just means I’ll have to go back next year …

The first view from the Viewpoints Walk.